I was two years in Mexico. Two years, wow. Seems like yesterday I closed my store on Caye Caulker and was moving over the border from Belize into Chetumal during the rains of November 2008 which washed away the Northern Highway, like a refugee. Err... I mean, full time artist.
The first few months were exceptionally difficult, not speaking Spanish, and on my own most of the time. Then came the Spanish Teacher with his dry sense of humor chiding me "Miss Lee Ann you are scaring the people again." and "You have to deal with these people and their attitudes with your elbows out, Miss Lee Ann stick your elbows out and establish your space." and my favorite thing he ever said was "Mexicans (read: Catholics) love an apology, so start any sentence with an apology for your bad Spanish." The tutoring always started with a 1/2 hour psychiatric counseling session and ended 2 hours later with my promises to study. I am a terrible student.
Friends were few and far between. In Chetumal there really isn't an expat community, not one that I could find anyhow. Where were all the white people hiding? After two years my neighbors went from fear of the apocolypse to a grudging admiration for the white lady who could now speak her crap Spanish (after the apology) to buy a coke light at the corner store.
I would be exaggerating if I said I did not make ANY friends at all. I was accustomed to meeting new, interesting people every day on Caye Caulker. After a couple of months I met a couple of cool Belizean ladies living in Chetumal, an American retired real estate agent (soon to move to Corozal) and an American lady living in Corozal who had loads of tips and tricks for traversing the border, essential info for me moving to and fro as I was. And that was it. Four ladies in two years. I found myself going to Chedraui and walking around with my shopping cart looking to bump into English speakers. That worked, but mostly I was beggining to be the weird American lady. As if...
And then came the dengue fever. 14 days sick with it, 10 days on my own, too sick to get out of bed, too sick to go to the doctor, high fever, rash, swelling, constant nose bleed. Trying to stay asleep as much as I could until it passed, IF it would pass. And then not feeling better after it passed, exhaustion, I found out that I had developed a heart problem, an arrhythmia, or irregular heartbeat. The depression that followed, made me realize that I NEVER wanted to be in that predicament again. I began to wonder if I needed to be on an antidepressant. But Ifelt like my depression was the situation, and I was the ony one that could change the situation. Alone in a foreign country, few friends, no one checking on me. Isolation. And while the isolation was good for me to be able to create new things, to have the mental space. I can't handle continual isolation. Who can? Ask someone coming out of solitary confinement.
So, I packed it in, and packed it up. Carload by carload and boatload I moved back to Caye Caulker, and still have some belongings in Mexico strewn across the city with friends. The last time I moved I said "I will never own this much junk again." and here I was, packing up boxes of all my "good stuff." I had decided to reopen my store in the Alamina Beach House apartment, which is located above the Sports Bar (next to the Police Station) It is the same property where my store was before, just in a different location in the building.
I got a lot of encouragement from my artist friends and other gallery owners in Belize to reopen. A good friend in San Pedro talked at length with me and told me some of her back story, which I didn't know. It was a story about having to pull herself up out of the toilet over and over, and reinvent herself, and to isolate the people that are making you crazy.
The biggest gift came early though. I am going to be 50 on November 25 (yes I am a turkey baby) and a friend here on Caye Caulker loaned me her handyman for 2-1/2 days as an early birthday present. So, Lenny painted and hammered and painted and hammered. Thank you Doris. This same friend also came over nearly every day to make sure that I had changed out of my PJs, taken a shower, combed my hair and made progress. She doesn't know that I know what she did, so don't tell her that I know she was checking up on me, but friends like that I am grateful for.
The first couple of weeks back on Caye Caulker, people who had heard of my demise, were surprised and pleased to see me. I simply told them "I am hard to kill." and wiggled my eyebrows, and then did the crazy eyes thing I am so good at.
Two years in Mexico made me realize that I need my people, even if the people on Caye Caulker are nosey and interfering. As I put on my old tear up clothes with 1/2 the fringe missing, nobody looked at me sideways.
So I got Shirlene to come back to work for me again. We are like Thelma & Louise, except we aren't going to commit suicide at the end of the movie.
I have very few regrets in life, and I don't regret closing the old store in 2008 and moving to Chetumal. It was an essential part of the journey.
But it appears that you CAN go home.
If you're confused about where I am, follow the pink.
Gotta LOVE Doris! You know she would never leave the house unless she was all put together and she is such an encouragement glad you have friends that are there for you. NOW if i could call her to go over and throw out your tye-dye t-shirts. or maybe I can get MB to do it when she visits next.
ReplyDeleteDarling Supergirl, I left my dye splased t-shirts in garbage bags on a street corner in Mexico. I am creating a whole new collection of dye encrusted, paint splashed, coffee stained with torn hem clothing here on Caye Caulker.
ReplyDeleteBeautiful, beautiful new gallery!
ReplyDeleteWelcome back. I missed you. I missed your adventures, observations, humour.
ReplyDeleteThat is one fabulous gallery. I hope you have the best of everything now that you're back.
We've only been to your gallery once (our house is in Maya Beach, far away from CC), but I love love your art. Glad you decided to come back to Belize!
ReplyDeleteFirst: HAPPY BIRTHDAY! I'm delighted to see you back.
ReplyDeleteLee, your new gallery is gorgeous! So sorry to hear of the difficult times, but sometimes they are our best teacher. If only they would be brief about it!
I wish you health and joy.....
I am glad you are back. Good lord, dengue fever! I'm glad you survived it. I am worried that you were so alone. Pardon me for asking but where's Bigness? I hope no bad news :-(.
ReplyDeleteBlessing in your return to CC.
Cassie
Thanks everyone for your words of encouragement. This place is 100% me. I am no longer having to deal with someone else's screwed up agenda. Bigness alchoholism and infidelity has caused him to be written out of the story.
ReplyDeleteCassie it scared me too to have dengue fever and to be alone in Mexico too sick to even get out of bed to go to the doctor. Isolated. I knew that I had to get closer to my friends, if I couldn't be close to my family. Where was Bigness? With someone else.